Penny Pinching Around the House

Re-upholstering is not that hard to do you can do it and save money by doing it yourself.

Don’t throw away that comfortable, but tattered, old arm chair or couch. Re-upholster it!

Whether you want to re-do that piece for sentimental reasons, or because you love the feel, the size, the shape, the memories, you can do it using the easy guide below:

Put your piece that you’re going to re-upholster somewhere you don’t mind making a mess, garage, family room, etc. Remove the fabric from the couch or chair, starting with the back. Don’t rip it off, remove it carefully. These pieces are going to be your pattern for the new covering. Number the pieces if you have to, or draw a diagram, because you are going to put the new fabric back on exactly as you removed the old.

Before you go any farther, check the construction of your piece of furniture. Is it in really good shape or does it need a little reinforcement. Shake it a little bit to make sure it is sturdy. Sometimes it needs a nail or screw here or there to make the arm steady. You may want to have on hand a good wood glue if it appears to need it in spots. Better to do it now, than after you have made all the fabric purchases and are anxious to get started.

After you have all the pieces removed, lay them out with the grain or the pattern going in one direction. Lay them out so they form a piece of fabric. Most upholstery fabric comes in either 54 or 60 inches wide; this is what you are trying to assimilate.

Measure the length and width of your pieces; this will give you approximate yardage. A yard is 36 inches long; you already knew that, but just a reminder. If your measurement says you need 5 yards, buy 6, just in case. You can always use the extra fabric in a pillow. In fact making a few decorator pillows or covering a foot stool is the sort of thing decorators get paid big bucks for, and you can do it yourself.

Is the platform on your piece (the part of the couch or chair where the cushions sit) made out of the same fabric or something different? Generally, this is easier done with the same fabric so that you do not have to cut and piece. So be sure to include that in your yardage measurement. Do not separate the pieces in order to use them for your pattern. You can of course choose to use something different. Even a piece of unbleached muslin would work for this. It is under the cushions and is never seen.

If the piece you have chosen to re-upholster has welting or cording anywhere, around the cushions, or arms, you will need to measure the length in order to buy new cord. I do not recommend using the old cord; it is usually rotten with age. Take a small piece with you to the fabric store so you can match the size. Buy a little extra, about a yard or so, cording is inexpensive and you want to give yourself a little leeway. Make a choice now as to whether you want the cording the same color as your couch or chair or if you would prefer to have it a contrasting color. Either way remember, you will have to have some extra fabric to create the cording. Instructions will follow on making the welting or cording.

The next type of fabric you will need is the dust cover; you took it off the bottom of your couch or chair. This can be done with a piece of unbleached muslin. Lasts a lot longer than the fiber it was done with originally and the kids and pets can’t rip it up. Just measure the full length of the piece and buy accordingly.Now, check your cushions, are they in good shape? If not then you will have to purchase new foam rubber. Measure them, length,

Now, check your cushions, are they in good shape? If not then you will have to purchase new foam rubber. Measure them, length, width and thickness. Fabric stores have foam rubber and will cut it for you or you can cut it yourself. Remember that electric knife you have tucked away and never use? This is perfect for cutting foam rubber. Actually, any serrated edged knife will work, but the electric knife is the best and easiest. Mark your foam rubber and cut carefully.

You may also want to make the cushions a little softer, so purchase quilt batting to wrap them in. Simply wrap the batting around them and secure with a needle and thread. To make installation simpler, I also make a cover with unbleached muslin, this helps when you put your cushions into the new fabric cover. No need to be fancy just make the cover the size of the cushion, you want it to fit pretty snug. Sew it together with a needle and thread, a whipstitch will do.

Also check the zipper if there is one. If it’s in good shape and you can take it out easily, then reuse it, if not purchase a new one. They should not show, so color is not that important.

Is the original batting on the piece in good shape? If so, leave it alone. If not, use quilt batting to rewrap the piece, securing it in spots with a needle and thread. Sometimes you have to remove the old batting and sometimes you can just rewrap over the old. You can make that choice. Just make sure whichever way you go the batting is nice and smooth.

When choosing your quilt batting, do not buy the thickest, buy a medium grade. Quilt batting comes either in packages sized for quilts or on a roll and you buy the yardage. The roll is normally the least expensive way to go. If you have done your measurements, then figuring out the yardage is fairly simple. The choice of batting is important as well. There is cotton and polyester. Sometimes if I am removing all the old batting I replace it with cotton batting and then use polyester over that for extra softness and smoothness. This is another decision you have to make.

Does your piece have buttons on the back or on the cushions? If so, you will want to purchase new ones. You can pick up self covered buttons and the directions are on the package on how to cover them in your fabric. Make sure you measure the size of your buttons or an easier way is just to take one of the old buttons with you and compare. You may choose to make them larger or smaller. They come in lots of different sizes. I will go into installation later. Just remember where they go.

Make a list of everything that you need for your re-upholstery job before you hit the trail to the fabric stores to find the perfect fabric for your new couch or chair. Check it twice, you do not want to have to retrace your steps because you forgot something. I live about 30 miles from the nearest fabric store, so it is real inconvenient to have to go back. If you have a color in mind and have a scrap of something in that color, be sure and take it with you, don’t try to guess if that red or blue is the right color. You will be wrong nine times out of ten.

Check out your fabric stores first. Some cities have large warehouse stores and sell mill ends. Because their inventory is big they can afford to sell for less money. Sometimes they have a better selection than the smaller stores such as Hancock or JoAnns.

Okay, you are at the fabric store and know just what you want and usually the salespeople will help you, but there a few things you need to remember about fabric. You need to choose a fabric that can be easily manipulated. What I mean is, you may have to pull the fabric tight and you don’t want it so stiff it can’t be stretched a little. Also some fabrics have a nap (corduroy or velvets) and cannot be what is called railroaded (turned in a different direction), please take this into consideration. If you wish to use this sort of fabric you have to buy a lot extra, and that could make the project much more expensive. This of course is your decision. This would be true also if the fabric has a definite pattern that could not be turned.

Another caution, when you removed your old fabric did you check to see if any of the pieces were cut on the bias, if they were be careful not to choose a stripe or plaid that won’t look attractive if used as replacement.

You have your fabric and all your notions and supplies and are ready to get started with your re-upholstery. Don’t be scared, remember if I can do it, so can you.

Making sure you have clipped any seams and taken out any darts, lay out your fabric and put the original pieces on it, laying the pieces exactly as they will be used. If your fabric is right side up, lay the pattern right side up. Secure with the straight pins, so the pieces don’t move around. Cut your larger pieces first. Cut your pieces about ¼ to ½ inch larger than the original, you can always trim a little bit off.

At this point you will want to make your welting or cording so it will be ready when you start to assemble. Depending on your fabric you will want to cut the fabric for your cording either on the bias or on the straight of the grain. The straight of the grain means either straight across the fabric or the length of the fabric. Bias means against the grain, imagine a square of fabric and fold it into a triangle. Cut through the triangle from long point to long point. This gives you a stretchy piece. I usually prefer to use the straight of the grain, because I do not want the stretch. If your fabric is fairly thick, then use the bias method. The reason for this is so your seams are not too bulky.

Cut your piece in strips and sew the strips together. You want the strips wide enough that when you fold it around your cording there is at least ½ inch of fabric sticking out past your cord. With your sewing machine and the zipper foot, sew as close to the cord as possible. Sometimes you have to sew twice because the foot does not get in as close to the cord as you would like the first time. You want the fabric on the cord to be as tight as possible.

You can now start the assembly to re-upholster your couch or chair. This is where the piece will talk to you, it will tell you exactly what to do, so listen to it. Use your numbering or diagram method and begin, reversing the order in which the original pieces came off. Do the body of your piece of furniture first. This is where you will use the staple gun and staples. Sometimes the staples don’t always go in as securely as you want them to, so use your tack hammer to pound them in.

Sometimes a section of the original fabric was attached by means of a metal strip of tacks. When these are removed they usually become bent and unusable. I am sure you could purchase them somewhere, but why bother? Instead, I cut a piece of cardboard the length and width of the original metal strip and use it in the same way. Not easily described, but if you run into this situation it will become clear what I am trying to describe.

Use your staple gun to attach one side of the first piece of fabric to the couch or chair in the same manner in which the old fabric was fastened. Gently but firmly pull and stretch the fabric from the opposite direction and staple down the far side. Then secure the next side and the next, manipulating the fabric as necessary. This is of course, much easier said than done, but you will quickly get the idea.

The way the fabric is stretched and stapled is the secret to a professional looking job. The covering should be taut, without sags or wrinkles, but not so tight there is no “give” and the fabric tears. If you are not satisfied with the way a piece of fabric went on or the way it looks, pull it off and redo it. Mistakes are easily corrected now and not after the fact, when they are impossible to fix.

Then make your cushions. If there is a zipper involved, do this step first, it makes the assembly much easier. If there is welting or cording around your cushions, sew it onto the main pieces first. Then sew the surround onto them. Make sure your corners line up. Push your cushion inserts in to your casing. Sometimes they need a little persuasion; I use a long wooden spoon to get the corners in where they belong.

If there are buttons on your cushions put them on now. Put the thread through the shank of one button and then put both ends of the thread though the needle and push it through the cushion. Separate the thread and put one end through the opposite button, pull fairly tight and tie it off, wrapping the loose ends around the button to hide.

put on the final back piece if you need to; this is the time to put on the buttons. Using a strong button thread, put the thread through the back shank of the button, put the thread in the needle, only one strand. Poke the needle through the back of the couch and leave the thread hang. Come back to the right side and put the other end of the thread though the needle and push it through the back of the couch just a little away from the original hole. Pull the thread fairly tight or as tight as you want it and tie it off with a square knot (right over left, then left over right). Use a small piece of batting to tie the knot around. This will make it secure and keep it from pulling through.

Now, put the back piece of fabric on your couch or chair. Next comes the dust cover. Simply staple it on, fold the fabric under just a little to take care of any rough edges, but back far enough the staples do not show.

Put your cushions on and stand back and admire your work. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done. See I told you that you could do it and now you have. Aren’t you proud of yourself? Now look around the house and see if there isn’t another piece that you want to re-upholster or look in the local thrift shops or yard sales and find the next treasure you are going to redo and love.

Note: The re-upholstery before and after pictures used here are not my projects, they’re just used to show what can be done. They were borrowed from www.upholster.com.

When is being a quitter a good thing? When you’re quitting a vice, of course! Vices are like opinions– everybody’s got one. You might be laughing, thinking “I’ve got a lot more than that!” Now, a little indulgence here and there is not a problem on its own. I know I pinch pennies tighter than ever when I’m looking forward to the reward coming my way as a result. But sometimes our spending can get expensive. If you’re wondering where your money boat’s sprung a leak, it’s probably somewhere close to a habit.

Habits are tricky. They can sneak up on you when you’re not looking. You start out with an occasional this or that, but it starts to add up to a whole lot more.

The worst part is when it comes time to break the habit. Not only do you like it, but you’ve begun to rely on it. It probably gives you a burst of energy, like a coffee, or a little rush, like buying a lotto ticket.

Other reasons we pick up bad habits: we’re bored, we’re too busy, we’re tired, we need a break. If you’ve been doing the habit a long time, all sorts of good memories are associated with it. A bad habit can surely be a formidable foe.

That habit can go straight for your bank account and start squeezing. It can be something as small as a few dollars every few days to start with, then it becomes a daily thing and suddenly you’re out a whole lot. After a while, your habit can start doing your spending for you.

This handy cost of your vices quiz by the eBay Deals team can let you know just exactly how much your vices are costing you by diagnosing your bad habits and spending. At the end you’ll get a number- your yearly bad habit expenditures, neatly itemized and laid out.

Take a long, hard look at the number. What could you do with that money? Is it a vacation or savings for a rainy day? A needed repair or an item you’ve been longing after for a while? Whatever motivates you most, think of that and remember the number next time you go to fork out the cash for your bad habit.

Kelsey Libert

Now that the big day has come and gone, it seems like such a big job to pack away all the decorations that took you days to put up for all the world to see. You decorated the Christmas tree and put up the lighted icicles all around the roof line. Maybe you even got more creative and made a Nativity Scene in your front lawn.

I know it is something you enjoy doing every year, but now it has to come down and be put away in anticipation of the next holiday season. (By the way, if you are planning to add more lights or any decorations next year; this is the time to buy!! All the stores are having at least a 50% off sale. Save those pennies and dollars!!)

Here are a few ideas to help you pack it all away and be more organized and maybe make your decorating next year a little easier and just a bit more fun. Who knows??

Wrap the delicate items in paper, but do not use newspaper! The ink may ruin the ornaments. You can run to the Dollar Store and buy tissue or you can use just about any paper. Run the paper through a shredder and it becomes very safe packing paper and will keep your ornaments separated and unbroken.

You can also use boxes with dividers in order to pack. A wine box works well for smaller items and a liquor box will work well for larger ones. Place some shredded paper in the bottom; lay in an ornament, then more paper until the divider is full. Continue and fill the box; seal well with a good packing tape to keep the critters out.

Decorations that contain photographs need extra care when packing them for storage. Wrap carefully in acid free paper and then seal well in plastic zip lock bags. This will not only keep the dust and dirt off of them, but be a deterrent to any bugs.

Place all your ornament hangers into a small box or a zip lock bag and pack into the boxes right along side your ornaments. You won’t have to search for them or end up having to run to the store to buy new ones. Because just as soon as you do that, you will find the old ones. Guaranteed!!

Use paper towel cardboard rolls for your lights. Stuff the roll full of paper and wrap the lights carefully around. An empty bread bag will probably be just the ticket to slide the lights into and secure with a twist tie. Assuming you have more that one string of lights, use a separate roll for each one. This will prevent tangling and make stringing those lights next year much easier. Leave the plug accessible and you can check for any burned out bulbs before you unwrap the string.

Now that you have the lights taken care of, what about the extension cords you used. Instead of hunting the house over to find some to use next year; pack and store them right along with the lights. Again using the empty paper towel roll, fold your extension cord up just to fit the length of the roll and slip it inside. Use an empty roll for each extension cord. No tangling.

To store your lights and extension cords, place then in a box and seal securely. Store in a dark place; colored lights can fade if exposed to light sources.

Save the garlands by using the wine or liquor boxes for packing again. The dividers should be just about the right size to hold each individual one. This will keep them from tangling and looking good for several years.

Pack and store the tree topper in a box by itself; seal it well. This will prevent it being crushed or misshapen.

The tree stand needs some thought as well. If you had a live tree and used a bucket with rocks, then drain it and clean it well. Leave the rocks to dry and box them separately.

If you had an artificial tree and used one of the tree stands with screws, it must also be cleaned before storing. Check it for any rust or missing paint. It will be easier to touch up now rather that the day you want to set up your tree.

Do you have a special tree skirt? Be sure to shake it out to remove any debris. If it is washable, then by all means, do this before you pack and store it away. You want to be able to take it out next year and have it clean and beautiful. Place it in a large plastic bag and seal well. Store in a clean dry place.

When packing away your wreath or wreaths for the next season, each one should be placed in its own box. The box should be big enough not to crush the wreath and small enough it will not slide around. Place some tissue paper in the box first and allow enough to come up the edges to wrap around the wreath. Tape the box securely and store in a dry place.

Wrap your holiday candles individually in cellophane and pack into a box, seal and store in a dry place.

A hanging garment bag will make a good storage container for paper. Simply store the rolls inside and zip up. You can put folded packages of tissue paper inside as well. If there are outside pockets, use them for cards, gift tags, etc.
Pack ribbons in a box by themselves. Be sure and pack loosely or you will end up crushing the ribbons and they will be unusable. Wrap long pieces of ribbon around your fingers and secure with a paper clip or a rubber band. This will prevent ribbon from tangling in the box, and much easier to use.

Be sure and label each and every box. This will take the guesswork out of trying to get organized for the next holiday season.

By Alina Tugend

I’ve been writing on some weighty topics lately — too little money, too many choices, too few jobs. It’s time, I decided, to move on to some questions that haunt me almost every day.

How much detergent should I put in my washing machine and dishwasher?

Do I need to do more for my dryer than clean that little pull–out lint catcher?

Should I rinse my dishes before putting them in the dishwasher?

Most of us learned how to use a washing machine or dishwasher in our parents’ house many years ago and haven’t really changed our methods, even though most appliances have evolved radically since then. We rarely, if ever, read the manuals when we buy a new one or glance through the instructions on the box of detergent or bottle of dishwashing liquid.

But because we’re probably using these appliances incorrectly, our dishes and clothes may not be coming out as clean as they could be. And we may also be damaging the machines.

Let me start with soap. The No. 1 sin, according to repair people and appliance experts, seems to be adding too much soap to washing machines or dishwashers.

“Nobody thinks they use too much soap,” said Vernon Schmidt, who has been a repairman for almost 35 years and is the author of a self–published book, “Appliance Handbook for Women: Simple Enough Even a Man Can Understand.” But apparently most of us are in denial.

Washing machines and dishwashers are made to use far less water now than older models and, therefore, need less soap. And detergents have also become increasingly concentrated. So a little goes a long way.

“Most people use 10 to 15 times the amount of soap they need, and they’re pouring money down the drain,” Mr. Schmidt said.

Following the instructions on the soap container is a good first step. Christina Saunders, a spokeswoman for Procter & Gamble, which makes Tide, Cheer, Gain and other laundry detergents, said researchers at the company did thousands of loads of laundry to determine the right amount of soap needed.

She said the caps were changed on liquid detergent containers a few years ago to make the lines specifying amount of soap needed for different size loads easier to see.

Mr. Schmidt, however, argues that depending on how hard or soft your water is, one–eighth to one–half of what is usually recommended should be adequate.

Too much detergent can make your clothes stiff and shorten the life of your machine. An excess of soap can also cause a buildup of mold and mildew, said Jill Notini, a spokeswoman for the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers, a trade group.

With high – efficiency machines – which includes all front – loading machines and any top loader that specifically states that it’s high efficiency — it’s a good idea to use detergents specifically made for them, she said. The detergents usually have H.E. on the front of the container. But don’t expect to see a lot of soap action.

“If people see suds, they think their clothes are getting clean, but that’s wrong — it means you’re using a lot of extra detergent,” Ms. Notini said.

Here is Mr. Schmidt’s test to determine if you’re over soaping. Take four to six clean bath towels; put them in your front–loading washing machine (one towel for a top loader). Don’t add any detergent or fabric softener. Switch to the hot water setting and medium wash and run it for about five minutes.

Check for soap suds. If you don’t see any suds right away, turn off the machine and see if there is any soapy residue. If you see suds or residue, it is soap coming out of your clothes from the last wash.

“I’ve had customers that had to run their towels through as many as eight times to get the soap out,” Mr. Schmidt said, who lives in Indiana. He offers other handy advice on his Web site, refrigdoc.com.
Too much soap is also a problem in dishwashers and can cause dishes and glasses to look filmy. Again, check the detergent container for recommended amounts — you definitely don’t have to fill up the entire soap container in the dishwasher.

Also, if your plastic items come out still wet, that doesn’t mean your dishwasher is not doing its job. Most dishwashers today emit less heat than the older models, so plastic doesn’t dry completely.

Loading the dishwasher right will also get your dishes cleaner. When I was growing up, apparently only my mother knew the right way to load. But since my mother can’t get to all your houses, Consumer Reports offers these much–needed tips on its Home and Garden blog. (Please don’t e–mail me if you disagree about these suggestions — like religion and politics, we all have our own views on this matter.)

Load large items at the sides and back of the dishwasher so that they don’t block water and detergent from reaching other dishes.

Place the dirtier side of the dishes toward the center of the machine for more exposure to spray.

Load silverware in the individual silverware slots most dishwashers now include. If you have an open basket, mix forks, spoons and knives to prevent them from sticking together.

Also, remove baked on food and large chunks, but for the most part, everyone I spoke to said pre-rinsing dishes before putting them in the dishwasher was not only unnecessary, it wasted thousands of gallons of water and could actually result in dirtier dishes.

“The soap needs something to work against to get the dishes clean,” said Lou Manganiello, who owns Household Appliance Service in Hawthorne, N.Y., and has been doing repairs for 23 years. For full disclosure, he has also ably repaired my appliances from time to time.

Now, on to dryers. I don’t happen to use those fabric softener sheets, but if you do, practice restraint, Mr. Manganiello said.

On the theory that if one is good, five must be better, people throw in a bunch of the sheets. Those liquefy when the dryer gets hot and can gum up the dyer, becoming “almost like tar and feathers,” Mr. Manganiello said.

Also, clean the lint below the removable filter. I bought an item at my local hardware store that looks like a bottle brush, but is longer, denser and has a kind of thin nose. It reaches down and removes lint you can’t get to otherwise.

And think about cleaning lint off the dryer where it vents outdoors.

Of course, the best way to extend the life of your dryer
is to use it less often by hanging out your laundry on a clothesline when the sun is shining.

One last bit of advice on an appliance — your oven. Use the self–cleaning mode more than once a year — otherwise, so many food particles have built up that when they burn off, smoke will billow throughout your entire kitchen. But don’t clean right before a big holiday dinner, Mr. Schmidt advised.

That’s because the oven heats so high during cleaning that any weak part will give.

“If it’s ever going to fail, it will then,” he said. “Every holiday we get swamped with calls.

CHECK THEM OFF AS YOU GO

Remembering when to do home maintenance can be difficult. Yes, you could write it on the calendar, but then you would probably forget to look at it. I know I probably would. So I have created a checklist, not just for you but for me as well. These tasks are simple and inexpensive, but vital to your home and your heating and cooling bills, for example. This is a good time of year to do all of these things and if you do them regularly, you will save not just time, but save money as well.

Fall Maintenance Checklist

Squirrels do it, birds do it—and you should do it too: make your nest warm, safe, and snug before the chills of winter set in.

Outside the House

	Prune tree branches that touch the house. When the wind blows, not only are the branches noisy, but could ruin the exterior finish on the house. If tall enough, could get under roofing.
	Clean your rain gutters. They need to be free of debris to do their job effectively. You may want to consider installing wire strainers. Doing this will continue to save you time from year to year.
	Clean and store outdoor furniture. Usually all that is needed is to hose them down.
	Remove window screens and check windows for needed putty, weather stripping or caulking.
	Now that you have repaired the windows, install your storm windows. This is pretty self explanatory. Saves a lot on fuel bills.
	Now that you have repaired the windows, install your storm windows. This is pretty self explanatory. Saves a lot on fuel bills.
	Inspect your chimney for loose flashing, damaged or loose bricks and any cracks. Because you will be using your fireplace during the fall and winter months, it needs to be in good repair. Also look for birds’ nests or anything that might possibly have created a blockage. Hire a chimney sweep if necessary.
	Drain outside faucets before the first freeze. Turn off the outside water. Wrap your pipes if necessary. Roll up your hoses and store them for the winter as well. Hoses aren’t terribly expensive, but why spend unnecessary money.
	Double check the drainage around your home. In some areas there are pretty bad rainstorms and flooding in the home is not what anyone needs.
	Check for drafts around the home, doors and windows or anywhere winter air might come in. Use the hair dryer and candle test. One person holds the hair dryer on one side of the door and another person holds a lit candle on the other. If the flame flickers, then you need to take care of the problem. Installing weather stripping just might be the answer.

Inside the House

	Fill and clean the humidifier (if you have one). Start it to make sure it is working properly.
	Have your heating system inspected by a qualified repair person. If you can’t do that, at least replace all of your filters. This will help the unit run more efficiently.
	Check the area around your furnace and sweep up any debris. Keep the area clean will help to make it run more effectively.
	Check your fireplace and clean it if necessary. Also be sure to check the damper. It should open and close without any problems. When closed it should keep out the winter air. Be sure to open it when you start a fire.
	Drain and check out your hot water heater. You should drain it at least once a year anyway and this is a good time. Hook a hose to it and drain off at least 5 gallons of water. This will remove the sediment on the bottom and extend the life of your hot water heater.
	If you have a garage door opener, this is good time to lubricate it. Spray the springs, the roller mechanisms and chain with WD-40. You really need to do this once a year. It will extend its life.

This is a very simple check list and it is for Fall or Autumn. I will be working on and getting ready to post one for spring as well. Be sure and look for it. Then on to Summer.

AND DON’T FORGET . . .

Beat the crowds by stocking up on these items before the first big storm is predicted.

• Snow shovel
• Salt or chemical ice melting crystals
• Firewood
• Interior and exterior doormats that can handle mud and slush
• Double check the family automobile for winterization, coolant, etc.